Jul 27, · Add water to the concrete and mix with a shovel per the manufacturer's instructions. If you want to add color to the countertop, now’s the time to add pigment to the mix. Smooth the Concrete. When the concrete is ready, pour it into the mold Total Time: 48 hrs. Apr 23, · Concrete countertops are typically /2 to 2 inches thick. Mixing and Pouring the Concrete. Make sure the mold is on a level surface that can accommodate the weight of the concrete. If you want to color your countertops, you can add cement .
By Michael Franco. The brute strength of concrete has made it the go-to building material for a variety of such outdoor installations as drivewayswalkwaysand patios. But there are some who love concrete not only for its high durability and low maintenance, but also for its distinctive look. In fact, probably due in part to its affordability, concrete has become a popular countertop material in both kitchens and bathrooms.
A proficient or even beginning do-it-yourselfer can make a concrete countertop himself, saving the costs associated with hiring a contractor to do it. Who knows? Soon you might find yourself making concrete countertops the DIY way! Start convrete determining the dimensions you want the countertop to be. Whats the best laptop for gaming, build a form into which you can pour the concrete so that once it how to operate a blaze king wood stove, the hardened material will conform more or less exactly to your desired specifications.
Caulk all joints in the melamine construction to ensure that the how to concrete counter tops dries with neat edges. That way, if you misapply any caulking, you can painlessly correct the mistake by just removing the tape. To smooth any imperfections in the caulk bead, run a wetted finger along the silicone before it dries. Is your concrete countertop going to be inset with a sink? If so, the form you build must include cutouts for the sink itself and if necessary for a faucet.
To leave room for these fixtures, you can build recesses into the hoa as in the picture above. How to concrete counter tops you may be able cocnrete get your hands on a foam mold of the sink and its accouterments—manufacturers often make these molds available, not so much for DIYers, but for the contractors who do this stuff every day. Yet another hiw the easiest—is to buy a sheet of high-density foam of the same thickness as your countertop. Cut the foam into pieces of the appropriate length and width, then sand their edges and cover the pieces with foam tape sold at hardware fo.
Finally, use caulk to secure the foam pieces into the right positions within the melamine form. Now lightly coat the melamine frame interior with olive oil; doing so will let the concrete slip more easily from the frame later on.
Before you can even think about pouring the concrete, however, one essential step remains: adding top, in the form of steel mesh. For best results, suspend the mesh at the doncrete point in the vertical height of your melamine form. Drill screws into the outside walls of your frame; connect the mesh to the screws via zip ties, strong ties, or even a bungee cord; then extend the metal wiring across the breadth of the frame. Bear in mind that in order for this approach to be successful, you must be careful to mix the concrete to a watery—but not too watery—consistency.
If this all sounds painstaking, consider the alternative: Mix the concrete however you like; pour it to fill the form halfway; set in the steel mesh; then fill the rest of the form. Fops to achieve a thick, oatmeal-like consistency. The wetter the concrete, the more brittle it becomes upon drying. Consider augmenting the concrete with additives tope inhibit cracking and shrinking.
Known as admixtures, these ought to be readily hod at your local home improvement retail store. Pour enough concrete into the form to fill its volume completely, then use your hands to work the material along the edges and into the corners. If you attached the steel mesh reinforcement to the frame itself, cut those connections now. Then proceed to use a flat board, such as a one-by-four, to level, or screed, the concrete. Move the board back and forth in order to smooth the surface and fill low spots.
Keep a trowel at the ready, so you can quickly deal with any excess. Next, use concrette wood float, raising its leading edge slightly, to smooth the concrete further. Meanwhile, tap the sides of the foncrete gently with a rubber mallet or grab ckncrete partner and shake the form side to side very lightly so as to create the vibrations necessary to dissipate air bubbles.
After letting the concrete harden for a couple of hours, come back to the form and once more run a tool over the concrete surface.
This concrrte, reach for the trowel and use it to eliminate any lingering imperfections. Lay a plastic sheet over the concrete to prevent it from losing too much of the moisture it needs to cure properly. Generally speaking, the longer you allow the concrete to dry, the stronger it ends up being. For maximum strength, you can let the concrete harden for a period of weeks, but for this purpose leaving it alone for a few days is plenty.
Once that time has elapsed, go ahead and remove the melamine frame, cojcrete lift hod concrete countertop into position on top of your base cabinets. If you like them, do nothing.
Otherwise, you can perform spot repairs with concrete patching compound. Remember, however, that after applying the patches what to do after an automobile accident allowing them to dryyou must then sand the countertop with diamond-grit sandpaper manually or using a power sander.
Finally, wash the counter thoroughly, removing all debris and fine particles of dust; let the countertop dry completely, then finish the job by applying a concrete sealer cobcrete a coating of food-safe polyurethane optionally followed by concrehe application of canuba wax. Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY.
Kitchen How To: Make Concrete Countertops Concrete is a striking and practical choice for countertops, made from a DIY-friendly materials that enables any confident homeowner to achieve quality results. More From Bob Vila. Newsletter signup: You xounter that BobVila.
Feb 11, · How To: Make Concrete Countertops STEP 1: Build the Form. Start by determining the dimensions you want the countertop to be. Next, build a form into which STEP 2: Reinfornce the Form. Now lightly coat the melamine frame interior with olive oil; doing so Author: Michael Franco.
Last Updated: May 27, References. This article was co-authored by Pete Sveen. He creates and shares inspiring video tutorials on building projects, from furniture construction to metalworking. There are 10 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed , times. Making your own countertops allows you to be specific about the look and the style This cheap material can easily last a lifetime with some basic maintenance and creating the countertops takes only minimal skill.
This article hopes to help you create your own DIY work-of-home-owner art. Just get started with Step 1 below. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers.
Don't worry about cut-outs for things like sinks right now: just get the shape of the rectangular or L shaped piece that you'll need. Try not to do anything to big all at once, as this will be very difficult to place. If you can, break it down into smaller sections.
Keep in mind that there is usually a 1" overhang from the edge of the cabinets. Make sure to add this into measurements for any sides not attached to the wall. Measure for your cutouts, like a sink.
If you need to have a cutout for the sink, measure or trace the shape that you need onto some paper or cardboard. Then, transfer that shape to some high density, firm foam like what is used in flower arranging and cut it out.
This cardboard square will help your visualize the sink or other object and cut around it when preparing the countertop. Cut the melamine base. You can cut the melamine using a table saw or similar tool. Cut the sides for your melamine, choosing your desired thickness. Adjust the measurements for either the short or long ends, depending on how you want the boards to overlap. How this is done doesn't matter, just as long as they make the shape of the base.
We could then adjust the measurement of the short sides to 25" so that they can nest between the long side pieces. You could also go the opposite way, and adjust the long sides back down to 60". Either way, test out your measurements with a tape measure on the melamine base to make sure everything will fit snugly.
Attach the pieces together. Using basic butt joints, drill pilot holes and then screw the sides of the mold together. You can then attach the sides to the base in the same way. Add the cutouts. Using rubber cement or another strong, even-drying adhesive, glue the foam cutout for your sink to the location it will go for the counter.
You need to make sure the foam is as least as high as your mold. When you pour the concrete in, the foam needs to prevent any concrete from getting into the sink area. If the sink will go at the edge of the counter, it might be better to simply build this into the mold, cutting it out ahead of time. Tape and caulk the the edges of the mold. You should then run a line of caulk along all the seams and form it to the joint using your finger.
Allow it to dry and then peel off the tape. This will prevent any concrete from leaking out unattractively. Use paper towels to wipe up any excess as you work.
Check that the foam and mold are level and clean. Use a carpenter's level to make sure the top edge of the form is level all the way around. If needed, sand it down to make sure it is all nice and uniform.
When done, clean the mold with a shop vac and a damp cloth. Let it dry before moving on. Optional -- lower the final weight by adding more foam throughout the mold. This little trick greatly reduces the final weight, and the necessity for more concrete.
Take some more foam and cut it to be only half the height of the mold. Then, leaving " between the walls and foam, glue down the foam. It will take up a lot of the space the concrete would have, but is much, much lighter.
When done, caulk it down to the mold. Take up all the foam pieces together on both sides with packing tape, including the outside edges. Make sure you leave the gap around the edges -- you need to concrete around the entire perimeter. Cut and fit your steel re-enforcement wire into the concrete. This helps for stability and shaping. You may need to cut and bend it a bit to fit it snugly into the molding. You don't want to add it in now -- you just want to make sure it fits.
Part 2 of Mix your concrete. Use a mix for the color and additives that is especially designed for countertops or floors. This is important, as you'll want strengtheners and other filler materials to make your concrete function better for this purpose.
You will also want to use a pre-mixed, high strength concrete. Your local home improvement store should be able to help you locate both of these products. Mix the concrete in a moving mixer, in order to get the right volume and consistency. These can be rented from your local hardware store. You want a roughly peanut butter-like consistency. Generally, less water is used for high strength concrete than normal concrete. Scoop about half your concrete into the mold. Using a shovel or scoop, pour your concrete into the form until it reaches the top edge of the form all the way around.
Add your steel re-enforcement over the first half of concrete. You can also add extra strength by cutting and placing a steel mesh in the wet concrete halfway through the pouring process, so that it is completely entombed in the material. This isn't completely necessary, but is important for preventing cracks and creating a countertop that will last a lifetime.
Continue adding the last half of concrete over the re-enforcement. Err on the side of having too much concrete in the form. You can always skim some off, but it is much harder to add in later.
Screen the top of the form. Using the edge of a flat board, lay it across the top of the form on one end and then slide it back and forth as you move down the frame to the opposite end. This will take off any extra concrete and make sure the top is level. You can use the edge of 2x4, or speciality concrete working tools. Work the edge back and forth along the top, like you are leveling floor in a measuring cup, to distribute the concrete evenly.
Take any excess concrete and use it to fill in any low spots. Extra concrete should be held onto for later, as it may help fill in spots. Vibrate the edges of the mold to release air bubbles.
Vibrate the whole table your form is resting on if you can, but at a minimum gently vibrate the sides of the form to get rid of any bubbles. You can use a sander on a low setting, without any attachment, and run it along the entire edge of the form, for the easiest solution.